The place of refuge

Big Island of Hawaii

The main function of this place for native Hawaiians in the past was as a refuge for kapu breakers - those who had broken the sacred laws, or kapu. Others sought refuge here as non-combatants during the frequent battles the Hawaiians used to wage among the various groups and islands. Wars in those days involved extermination of everyone in the opposing group, not just the warriors. Defeated warriors also came to this place, to wait out the war in safety, until the battles were over.

No matter who came here, or what their reasons, the pu'uhonua was a place of sanctuary, where all was forgiven. It was sacred ground that was respected by all, and on which life began anew in ancient Hawaii.

This site is actually three sites in one.

The Royal Grounds, were the home of the ruling chief. His courtyard adjoined the pu'uhonua, and consisted of ten or more thatched buildings that formed his palace. There were royal canoes, which were launched from the small beach reserved for the exclusive use of the chief and his attendants. The beach is clearly marked by a gruesome ki'i, or image, which told others in no uncertain terms to "keep off"!

The second site is the Hale o Keawe Heiau, or temple. The one that appears in the photo is reconstructed. This temple served as a mausoleum, and housed the bones of 23 former chiefs. The mana, or spiritual power in the chief's bones conferred additional protection to this place of refuge.

The third site is not so much a "site" but certainly dominates the whole area - the Great Wall. This wall separated the palace grounds from the pu'uhonua. As with all of these walls to be found in Hawaii, this one is built of stones formed from lava. Each stone is carefully laid. No mortar is used...the stones were simply fitted together. This particular wall is the largest I saw while in Hawaii, and measures some 1,000 feet long, 10 feet high, and is over 17 feet wide! The wall was built around 1550, and looks to me as though it will easily stand for another 450 years.  Outside the Great Wall is an Old Heiau Site, which has the famous Keoua Stone - supposedly sat upon by Keoua, high chief of Kona (as reported by Mark Twain in his book Letters From Hawaii).

This area is still actively used by Native Hawaiians.  In 2001, I was witness to the fishing method called hukilau, where fish were driven into the shallows by beating the water (sometimes with ti leaves tied to ropes).

In 2009 I observed a Hawaiian ritual being performed at the Hale o Keawe Heiau, or temple.  A Hawaiian man was talking to the spirits of the chiefs.

There is a certain serenity to be found while you stroll among the coconut palms - walking on the sacred area of the Palace Grounds, and though the rest of the pu'uhonua. Try to figure out the rules for the Hawaiian version of checkers game, using the Konane stone.

Perhaps these photos of a canoe being paddled along the Kona coast at sunset and a spectacular sunset over the Hale o Keawe temple and the royal canoe landing will communicate to you the inner peace this place is capable of bringing to those of us who seek it.

This is my favorite location in the whole of Hawaii
(not just on the Big Island itself)

This is a special place...one that is well worth visiting.

Pu'uhonua o Honaunau also has a picnic area. Instead of parking in the parking lot, drive through to the end and veer left, taking the dirt road through to the picnic area.  Lots of parking is available under the palms.  

I sat for hours under the shade of a palm tree on the white sand beach, looking out at the ocean with a warm trade breeze to keep me cool. Some Hawaiians arrived to fish in the surf, and other tourists have lunch, sun, or pothole in the lava along the ocean.

I hiked down the trail to Loa Point. I didn't go the whole way to Ho'okena Beach - too hot for me. Along the way, I discovered what looks like a cattle corral - no doubt a remnant from the past. There is a dry cave at Loa Point, so take a flashlight if you want to explore.